The Right Shampoo For You!

The art of washing your own hair- should be simple, right?  Something we learn when we are toddlers, no?  

The truth is, there are so many different aspects of what goes into washing your hair correctly, that most people are doing it the wrong way. This is the number one reason you end up dissatisfied with the way your hair looks after styling. There are different methods you should be following based on your hair type: oily, dry, flat, thick/coarse, color treated.... Most people don’t realize that you have to cater the products on your shower shelf to your hair's specific needs.  I’ve put together a little “How-To” guide for you, to make sure you are using the best products for your hair type. This way styling can end in head-turning results. Scan through each section, but pay close attention to your own hair type!

Fine Hair:  Fine hair means that the individual strands of your hair are very thin, which ends up making it extremely difficult to achieve body when styling your hair.  A huge hair myth is that everyone should be using the strongest conditioners they can find on the shelves.  In reality, fine hair almost needs no conditioning.  Conditioner weighs the hair down and will make the hair owner look oily very quickly after washing.  

What you should be looking for, are shampoos and conditioners that say “add volume.”  These products have ingredients that help dry the hair, even rough up the cuticle a little. This helps give the hair “grab” when styling, leading to a more voluminous head of hair.  If you feel like you NEED to use conditioner, use the smallest amount possible, and only run it through the ends of your hair- steer clear of your root!  The shampoo and conditioner I like to use at work is Goldwell’s Dual Senses line for Volume.  It is a very light shampoo and conditioner, perfect for fine hair.

Some tips on styling fine hair: stay away from any products that are a cream or serum, or anything oil based.  Instead, opt for things that will help add volume, such as mousses and root lifting sprays.  Regular trims are a MUST.  Depending on the length that you like to keep your hair, visit your stylist every 4-6 weeks for a “dusting.”

Thick/Coarse Hair:  Thick hair is fine hair’s lucky sibling, and is a little easier to manage.  The main complaint that people with thick hair gripe about, is that it tends to to look a little puffy, maybe even frizzy.  Where people with fine hair usually have to wash their hair everyday, thick hair is best when washed every other day, or longer.  Your natural oils work in your hair’s favor, coating the follicles as the days pass, making it look sleeker with each passing day.  Conditioning is important and helpful for thick hair, so it is okay to use conditioner every time you wash.  Still, most people make the mistake of putting conditioner on their scalp.  You DO NOT need conditioner there.  I recommend that people apply conditioner from halfway down their hair shaft, through the ends.  If your hair is long, I tell people to apply from where your ponytail would start, down to the bottom of your hair.  Using a hair mask or deep conditioner once a week seals the deal on keeping thick hair healthy and shiny.  I like Goldwell’s Rich Repair line. The shampoo and conditioner are great for abused hair, and their 60 Second Treatment hair mask is magical.  Most hair masks you have to apply, get out of the shower, leave on for 30 minutes, then get back in the shower to rinse.  With this one, you can put it in your hair after you have shampooed, leave on for 60 seconds (hence the name), do the rest of your cleaning in the shower, then rinse.  So great!  Also, if you are not washing your hair everyday, but on that last “dirty” day you feel a bit greasy, I am a BIG fan of dry shampoo.  It comes in a spray can, and to apply correctly, hold it about 3 inches from your head, spray directly on the root where you feel oily.  Then, massage into the scalp with your fingertips, and lastly, comb through the hair to avoid powdery-looking patches.

Curly Hair:  Curly hair CAN be beautiful!  It just takes a little bit of work.  The main reason curly hair tends to almost always look frizzy, is because curly hair lacks moisture more so than straight hair.  It is constantly in need of hydration.

I have become a believer of “non-lathering” washing methods for curly hair. They are not always classified as shampoos, but are sometimes called “Cleansing Conditioners.” The theory behind using cleansers that do not lather, is that when there is a lot of lather in a shampoo, it irritates the cuticle of the hair, which creates that frizzy, damaged hair look. Not having lather when you wash takes a little getting used to. I have a lot of clients that tell me that they do not feel clean unless they feel a bubble bath’s worth of suds happening up on their head. You just have to fight the urge for the lather, but make sure you generously use the non-lathering product, and really scrub it into your scalp. It might take a little more elbow grease than usual, but it will tone your arms and clean your hair, all at once!

The two most popular non-lathering systems for curly hair are the Deva products and Wen Hair Care.  The Deva line comes in a separate shampoo and conditioner.  The shampoo is offered in “No-poo,” (which has no lather), and “Low-poo,” containing just a little bit of later, but less than your average shampoos.  

The second product is called Wen cleansing conditioner, and it is just one step, not two separate items.  You have to order this online or by telephone.  People have been really thrilled with the results, however after two weeks straight of using, you might want to use a clarifying shampoo just once, to get rid of product build up.

Some more tips on keeping curly hair hydrated: as the day progresses and your hair might be fluffing up, keep a small bottle of leave-in conditioner in your bag, and spritz a light mist all over. Then scrunch your curls for about a minute.  Also, try to never brush your hair.  Instead, comb the cleansing conditioner through your hair with a wide tooth comb while in the shower before you rinse it out.  Then, when you get out of the shower, just blot your hair with a towel, and use your fingers to separate and style.

It is always important to use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner on your hair. They have gentle, non-stripping properties, that are even more essential especially when you color your hair.  All of the recommended shampoos and conditioners are sulfate free.

This advice is the foundation for having fabulously healthy looking hair. No matter what your texture is, it's possible. Here's to health, happiness, and great hair!